Sometimes, I hate change, especially when it happens in paradise. Crete Island has changed a lot since the COVID-19 pandemic. The soul of this beautiful island has been shaken continually since the great recession of 2008. It’s seen a kind of Frankenstein transformation. Fortunately, by the grace of the eternal, a few things here remain indelibly the same. Phyllosophies, one of Heraklion’s most famous sidewalk cafes, is one such miracle of consistency.
Nothing is so painful to the human mind as a great and sudden change. – Mary Shelley
This legendary Cretan eatery was started back in 1922 when Apostolos Salkintzis, the master of the bougatsa and phyllo of Smyrna, opened Ta Leontaria (The Lions), in Lions’ Square of the city center. Grandfather Apostolos, as he is referred to now, invented several amazing recipes to entice diners, including bougatsa with myzithra, unique in Crete, vegetable pies, cheese pies, traditional pies, authentic loukoumades, and traditional Byzantine, to name a few. These traditions of Phyllosophies continue unchanged for generations, as does the custom of using fresh ingredients only from local producers. As delectable as these offerings are, a lovelier tradition is alive and well beside the Venetian fountain in the Lion’s Square. The people and unequal hospitality are the premier attractions of this famous spot.
For over six years now, we’ve made breakfast or lunch at Phyllosophies a tradition of our own family. Sometimes, we even stop by to say hello to Georgos and our other friends there. My wife always tells me, “Stop and see our friends. They will make your day brighter.” And indeed, she’s right, although our pals serving customers will swear to you that I light up their faces instead. Both may be true. I want the reader to understand what Cretan philoxenia (love for strangers) is about. After all, this spirit has always been considered a moral duty and a sacred rule of the gods of Greece and Crete. Sadly, not too many practice authentic filoxenia these days. They no longer fear the wrath of Zeus Xenios or the watchfulness of our own Jesus. Should more people study the scriptures to learn about the importance of hospitality?
On the bright side, I am thankful for experiences like this morning’s breakfast in the square. Being a snob about omelettes, I can no longer resist the temptation to sit in front of the ancient fountain to taste perfection.
No one can cook an omelette better than I can, with two exceptions I’ve found in 68 years. The first exception is a lady at a Waffle House in Witchita, Kansas, USA, whose name I have forgotten. The other breakfast chef/cook who surpasses me is a lady named Vana (at left), who creates lightness and fullness simultaneously in all her fantastic egg wonder. You see, adding many ingredients and still cooking the eggs to fluffy perfection is not the easiest. Most get a runny inside, overdone outside, or some such lousy offering. If you’re an omelette enthusiast, you understand what I mean.
We always treat guests as. angels… just in case. – Jeremiah of Wallachia. 1556 – 1625
Phyllosophies checks all the boxes every time. Table water – check. Fancy placemat – check. Immediate service – check. Aromatic cappuccino – check. Perfect location – check. And a staff anyone would be proud to call “friend’ – check. This morning, after a big hug from Georgos, a lovely young woman named Georgia (below right) provided the real secret of this foodie spot’s success.
For those of you who’ve worked in a nice restaurant or cafe, the authentic smiles and the darting eyes (looking for guest needs) are the telltale signs you sat down at the right place. And Georgia, which is the state in the U.S. where my Mom was born, could work in any Michelin restaurant or skytop speakeasy on this planet. What a kind and beautiful girl. (I asked the wifey if I could say that)
Anyway, the important thing. Or, I should say, “the crucial thing” is that Phyllosophies remains intact, unchanged, even when some of my friends who worked there have moved on (thinking of Angel, the musician). What you are reading is a big “thank you” to my pals at this beautiful dining/relaxation spot. It’s also my highest recommendation for “must visit” dining experiences in Heraklion. The other is Peskesi, owned by a unique and innovative fellow, Panagiotis Magganas, who transformed an idea and a dream into one of the world’s most famous traditional restaurants.
So, check out my recommendation and tell me about your experience. I am easy to find on the Internet.