Rediscovering the Past
Less than 500 meters from Bulgaria, near Petritsi in Central Macedonia, lies a border region steeped in military history. Under dense vegetation, remnants of outposts, anti-tank lines, and machine gun bunkers reveal the significance of the area. The only sounds breaking the silence are the Egnatia Highway’s distant hum and the Strymonas River’s serene flow.
Panagiotis Savvidis, journalist and founder of the social cooperative enterprise Angistro Drasi, aims to revitalize interest in this region. By organizing tours, he highlights military sites from the pre-WWII Metaxas Line — a series of fortifications designed to protect Greece from Bulgarian invasion — and extends to Cold War-era defences. His efforts breathe new life into these historic landmarks, hidden deep within the lush forests and rugged terrain of Serres.
From Verdun to Serres
Inspired by a visit to Verdun, France, where an entire community thrives on military tourism, Savvidis saw potential in his hometown of Serres. Drawing parallels, he launched guided tours in 2017 with friends and associates, mapping out intriguing paths to the forts and clearing tunnels along the way. The tours encapsulate history from the interwar period to the mid-90s, showcasing the endurance and strategic prowess of the region.
One notable stop is an abandoned outpost. In 1975, visitors were inspected here before crossing the checkpoint under the watchful eyes of numerous military personnel, a vivid reminder of Bulgaria’s perceived threat at the time. Further along, visitors can see ammunition storage hatches, reinforcing the area’s readiness to repel invasions.
Immersive Historical Experience
The highlight of these tours is Fort Paliouriones, painstakingly cleaned and prepared for public visits by Savvidis’ team. Visitors hike through verdant forests and reach an arcade where history comes to life with relics like letters, helmets, and newspapers dating back to WWII. He recounts the tragic loss of local reservists, predominantly older men fighting against the German invasion, giving a face to the often nameless soldiers of war.
Inside the fort’s narrow, underground corridors, the atmosphere is intense. Dimly lit passages and sound effects enhance the sense of stepping back in time, complemented by historical explanations about the forts’ constant 14-degree temperature and their formidable construction.
Savvidis and his partner, historian Giorgos Polychrous, envision transforming this military heritage into a thriving tourist attraction, emphasizing both educational value and economic potential. Their plans to expand these tours were momentarily stalled by the pandemic but have since experienced growing interest.
The major hurdle remains the ownership of these sites by the Ministry of Defense. However, recent statements from Defense Minister Nikos Dendias hint at a positive future, with intentions to hand over the forts for community use, promising the preservation of these historic outposts while boosting local tourism.
The Brass Tacks:
- Military history tours in Central Macedonia highlight the Greek-Bulgarian border’s past.
- The tours span from the interwar period to the Cold War, featuring the Metaxas Line forts.
- Inspired by Verdun, Savvidis started thematic tours to promote local military sites.
- Tours include visits to abandoned outposts, ammunition hatches, and WWII-era relics.
- Plans to develop these sites into tourist attractions face challenges due to Ministry of Defense ownership.
- Recent government statements indicate potential community use of these historic sites.
Exploring these historic military landmarks offers a unique and immersive experience, combining education with a touch of adventure, all while contributing to the local economy.